I tried lin3arossa's idea to measure the flat pattern pieces for the waistband pieces (Burda Style Magazine 07/2010, Pattern #127 Trousers).
I only measured the top edge of the waistband pieces (I didn't of course measure the seam allowances). BTW didn't measure the hip size on the pattern - as I'm not sure exactly where on the main trouser pattern peices the natural hipline is supposed to sit (and it's not marked on it so I cannot tell - plus, being a beginner I'm too daft to make an educated guess LOL!).
| Pattern Stated Size |
Actual Size of Pieces
(As measured by moi!) |
Size 88 • Waist = to fit 82cm (32.3") • Hips = to fit 106cm (41.7") Size *90 • Waist = to fit 86cm (33.9") • Hips = to fit 110cm (43.3") • Waist = to fit 90cm (35.4") • Hips = to fit 114cm (44.9") | Size 88
• Waist = measures 87.8cm (34.6")
2.3" bigger than stated size Size *90 • Waist = measures 91.4cm (35.9") 2" bigger than stated size Size *92 • Waist = measures 96.6cm (38") 2.6" bigger than stated size |
So assuming I know how to handle a ruler ;) and.... even taking into accounting an allowance of up to 2.5cm (1") of ease as part of the waist measurement (i.e. 1" ease would be where the finished garment is 1" larger in size than the actual person's waist measurement) the waistband front and back pattern pieces come up significantly bigger than the body-size that they are stated to fit.
Therefore, knowing what my own body measurements are - I shall be making my muslin for a size 90 waist & a size 88 in the hips.
I am cutting the calico fabric tonight, I'm out of the house Thursday - so sewing it up & resolving fitting issues will be on Friday evening (I am soooo behind & Sunni has already made 3-posts about fitting, including c-r-o-t-c-h adjustments!!)
Most Common Pant Alterations
In which I finally talk about the word.....
Discussing, at length, Crotch Length
Therefore, knowing what my own body measurements are - I shall be making my muslin for a size 90 waist & a size 88 in the hips.
I am cutting the calico fabric tonight, I'm out of the house Thursday - so sewing it up & resolving fitting issues will be on Friday evening (I am soooo behind & Sunni has already made 3-posts about fitting, including c-r-o-t-c-h adjustments!!)
Most Common Pant Alterations
In which I finally talk about the word.....
Discussing, at length, Crotch Length
*The pattern only goes up to size 88 - I traced onto the end an extra few sizes myself.
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Don't forget to take the ease into account. That means that the garment doesn't have your exact measurements but rather more, for you to be able to move around in your clothes. How many cm the ease is, depends on the fit of the garment (fitted, semi-fitted, unfitted). I have a chart for this, I can send it to you if you'd like, or you can also google it.
ReplyDeleteghainskom at yahoo dot com
Argh somehow missed the paragraph where you talk about the ease allowance! Well then, I'm glad I was able to help :)
ReplyDeleteLOL @ ^ (maybe it was an ease-y paragraph to miss ;) ?). Nope, you're right wearing ease has to be remembered when fiddling with sizes - it'd be no good of me to make a perfect "looking" pair of trousers if all I can do is stand up straight in them & never sit/walk - I'd look a like a very pretty (but silly) statue!
ReplyDeleteIMO the style of trouser pattern #127 seems fitted/semi-fitted, so without divulging my actual waist-size ('cos I'm also about to embark on a health-kick to reduce the waist size hehe) the size 90 for the waistband should do the trick, if not then as I'm sewing up the muslin tonight & fiddling with the fit too the 1" (2.5cm) seam allowance Sunni suggested should allow me plenty of wiggle-room to let things out a bit if it's to tight to even breathe (LOL).
So excited to hear how it goes! I struggle with ease at pant waistbands (perhaps because I wear my pants low, though)---too much and they fall off; not enough and I pop off buttons. :P
ReplyDeleteHa ha - weeell.... having tried on my muslin, there is not so much a problem with ease - as a problem with lack of fabric, as it they're to small (boo!). Never, mind though I think Sunni's post on Fullness & Waistlines might fix it for me, however I have a back-up plan if that doesn't work :)
ReplyDeleteIIRC, Burda's hipline is 20cm below the waist.
ReplyDeleteI have no idea if that is different in Tall patterns.
In Petite sizes, it's -1cm so 19 cm below.
lakaribane - that's useful to know (thank you!) Perhaps (& I'm guessing here LOL) as the petite is 19cm below, and the normal/regular height patterns are 20cm below, then I'd guess-ti-mate the "tall" are 21cm below. I think next time I shall measure the pattern pieces at the hipline level and compare next to my own before deciding which size to cut out :)
ReplyDelete